GM-416-8B MLTL Corner Cabinet

[srivenkat]

After much thinking and attempts at using different polygon shapes, I have come up with a different version of the same 12 sided 30 degree polygon which has the required cubic foot volume and room for 9 inch ports on the sides.

James,

WoW, brilliant!! You are master at it! Looks too good.

I take it, all miter joins are 15 degree angle cut. Size of boards - parallel boards are 15 inch and other boards are 11-9/16 inches?

Hope you are enjoying thanks giving holidays.

Thank you,
Sri

[VolvoHeretic]

Hi Sri, the center angled boards are cut at a 15 degree miter on both ends and are 11-15/16" wide. The outer angled boards are also 11-15/16" and the inner miter angle is 15 degrees, but the outer miter is 22.5 degrees as is the vertical extreme side boards which is 14-11/16".

I want to lower the horn and woofer 3/4" and add another piece of plywood at the top to build a box around the horn recess so that the recess is completely attached to the front baffle and completely removes with it. This way, when you decide to build a new baffle to install two woofers and a 511 horn, you can build the larger horn recess to fit the 511, attach that to the baffle and lower the two woofers accordingly and still maintain the horn center to woofer center distance for that crossover, unless the crossover needs to be completely redesigned at which point that will then have to be determined by others.

Please ignore the messy dimensioning and lack of clarity, I am drawing everything in each of the side and front views and will separate and clean them up into several different views depending on where the cut lines need to be.

I also have drawn woofer and compression driver 3/4" motor supports that will attach to the vertical 1.5" handrail stiffener.

Also, I have not calculated the exact volume yet, so the overall depth might change.

[GM]

Greets!

Ya'll be 'bookin' along faster than I can assimilate the changes, though one thing I noticed is that somewhere I noted that the fake baffle to 'flush mount' the driver would be nothing more than a grill equivalent, so could be [industrial grade] velcro'd on same as I've done, making for a nice 'clutter' free 'face' whether as one big one or in multiples. Of course if you're going for the 'Industrial' look complete with 'Steel City' gray paint to match your 'trailer Queen' '71 'vette....... Steel City' gray paint - Google Search

Also, what's with the small bolted on round overs? They aren't big enough to do anything beyond cosmetic and seems like they'd look tacky if viewed from any angle but dead ahead. Better overall to just cut the baffle edges at 45 deg to show the grain or add wood grain or metal strips.

Like the idea of a band to pay homage to the M19's two box visuals like some others have done and was proposed for the stillborn one box 'mini' M19.

GM

[westend9]

Late to the party but what an extravaganza!

About the only input or suggestion I would venture is to decide early about driver compliment and build accordingly. Trying to make a big cabinet like this where the plans are in flux between two different or three different driver alignments is too difficult. If it's not perceived as such, forgive my interloping.

Good luck on the build, Sri! And Mr. Heretic with the amazing drifting skills, where were 'ya when I needed you? Just kidding, of course. Really a great thing to have accurate working plans, though.

[srivenkat]

Late to the party but what an extravaganza!

About the only input or suggestion I would venture is to decide early about driver compliment and build accordingly. Trying to make a big cabinet like this where the plans are in flux between two different or three different driver alignments is too difficult. If it's not perceived as such, forgive my interloping.

Good luck on the build, Sri! And Mr. Heretic with the amazing drifting skills, where were 'ya when I needed you? Just kidding, of course. Really a great thing to have accurate working plans, though.

Lance,

Thank you.

From the drivers, it will be GPA 416-8B, 802-8G and 811/511B horns.

Again, thanks for your detailed documentation on your build its all started from there. Mr. Heretic's great effort brought so much details and with GM and VolvoHeretic, I am sure at the end we will have another great cabinet with accurate plan.

-Sri

- - - Updated - - -

Greets!

Ya'll be 'bookin' along faster than I can assimilate the changes, though one thing I noticed is that somewhere I noted that the fake baffle to 'flush mount' the driver would be nothing more than a grill equivalent, so could be [industrial grade] velcro'd on same as I've done, making for a nice 'clutter' free 'face' whether as one big one or in multiples. Of course if you're going for the 'Industrial' look complete with 'Steel City' gray paint to match your 'trailer Queen' '71 'vette....... Steel City' gray paint - Google Search

Also, what's with the small bolted on round overs? They aren't big enough to do anything beyond cosmetic and seems like they'd look tacky if viewed from any angle but dead ahead. Better overall to just cut the baffle edges at 45 deg to show the grain or add wood grain or metal strips.

Like the idea of a band to pay homage to the M19's two box visuals like some others have done and was proposed for the stillborn one box 'mini' M19.

GM

GM,

Thank you.

From Mr.Heretic drawing,

The small bolted on round over are 1-5/16" x 1-5/16" dowels.

The one in the center is vertical 1.5" pine handrail top and bottom panel stiffener with two 4"x4" pieces of plywood will have that same size hole drilled in them so the railing is the full inside box height and the plates slide over it and will act like a large gusset and this increase the gluing surface area from 1.75 to 16 sq in plus the .75" depth.

Also, woofer and compression driver 3/4" motor supports that will attach to the vertical 1.5" handrail stiffener.

Hope this aligns with your thought, please let us know.

Thank you,
Sri

[jocelys1]

Sri, the suspense is killing us.

[VolvoHeretic]

Thanks for the compliments guys. Here is the latest version which uses a 1.5"x.75" trim frame with 1/2" round-over edge to cover the baffle screws which would be attached with Velcro.

My mother in law has finally awoken from the induced coma, is over the hump, and is now on the long road to recovery.

[srivenkat]

Thanks for the compliments guys. Here is the latest version which uses a 1.5"x.75" trim frame with 1/2" round-over edge to cover the baffle screws which would be attached with Velcro.

My mother in law has finally awoken from the induced coma, is over the hump, and is now on the long road to recovery.

James,

Good news about your mother-in-law, wishing her the best for fast recovery.

Great diagrams, trim frame is very nice. Thank you. Once GM finalizes, we can start the build I think.

-Sri

[westend9]

Sri,
JUst thought of something and it may bear on this or not but here goes: Access to interior. Sometimes, in order to remove/add damping materials, reconstruct port lengths, etc., it's nice to have any easy way to gain entry into the interior. When I built my GM MLTL's I doubled the bottom panel. allowing a hatchway to the interior. It is documented in my build thread. I was thinking you could do the same but locate that on the top. I know GM has mentioned it to me and others that the top panel has a lot of the MLTL sonic loading and a double panel on the top would inherently help with that loading.

I know you are going to enlist a removable baffle but taking out many screws and a trim piece for only a few minutes work inside, sounds laborious. If you think that once built, any interior work isn't needed, please disregard the above.

Best of luck to you on the build. I'll bet that you are amazed with the sound, once completed.

[jocelys1]

My mother in law has finally awoken from the induced coma, is over the hump, and is now on the long road to recovery.

Good to hear.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the compliments guys. Here is the latest version which uses a 1.5"x.75" trim frame with 1/2" round-over edge to cover the baffle screws which would be attached with Velcro.

Superbly detailed drawings James. This will go a long way in documenting Greg's MLTL design and theory.